The term “zarai-shu” is used to describe indigenous species grown from seeds and not cuttings. This means every tree is genetically different, even when they come from the same plantation. Each has its own distinct flavours and character and above all a specific time of harvest, which makes it impossible to pick leaves from all “zairai” trees at the same time. “Zarai” plantations now account for only a negligible portion of the surface area farmed.